Old Woman Hut
Late summer, Central Otago. Weather Gods are frowning. Project team has retreated to Dunedin. Just the car and I. Feeling adventurous. Maps are unfolded. Mum wouldn’t like the thought of me tramping alone.
Quick stop in Roxburgh for a pie and a chance to decide not to. Will it be lonely? I’m rarely lonely on my own, but if stuck with the wrong company, like a conspiracy theorist, I think the feeling would be magnified by wilderness. (The time my partner and I spent a hut night with an evangelist and marriage counsellor was bad enough). Might get bit closer. Here’s Bannockburn and there’s time for a wine tasting.
Suddenly feeling brave. Walking into the Kopuwai desert. Wind whistling. Spaniards bristling. The landscape is golden and empty, and huge. In the distance, the sky is black. Tussocks begin to bend softly; it’s coming this way. I hurry into the hut just as the front rolls over the range. Outside is sleet and darkness and noise.
A break in the storm: through the window, three or four people are approaching. Mum’s fear of ‘weird men’ in the backcountry seems less silly just then. I put on a brew and bury myself in my book. But company never arrives.
In the morning when I step outside, steam is rising off rocks and half the world is lit brightly. Spaniard tips sparkle, streams gurgle. The entire Hector range is capped in fresh snow, and pipits are calling.
Photograph: “The time when love of exploring overcame a fear of tramping alone.” https://bit.ly/37lqK55
Supportive comments are welcomed.
I have heard a few people comment to me in person about this story – short and to the point first drew them in and then to feel as though they were in your shoes. I feel my palms getting sweaty thinking about setting off from the cosy car and into the rough weather alone. Because of you, I have now set myself a goal for 2020 to do a tramp/hike by myself. Thank you so much for sharing. Your photo is absolutely stunning and moody. How high did you have to climb to get to the hut!?
Nice little story. I recently started hiking alone at night. Slightly different fears, but i can relate to your feelings there. The aloneness, the darkness and noises, the potential dangers both real and made up, but rewarded by a beautiful morning where the aloneness is no longer loneliness.
Thanks Lu and James. It was a short tramp, not a hard core mission whatsoever- the only difficult part was disappearing into such a stark place alone. Hiking in the dark by yourself is next level James, but sounds a good way to see sunrises in sweet spots!